Fabric Focus: Sewing with Wool

Thinking about how sustainable your sewing is can be a small way to contribute to larger environmental goals. Yes, it’s key to reduce waste and invest in quality but one helpful question you can ask is about the fabric you use. Natural fibres are the best you can sew with and knowing where your fabric was made can be very enlightening to ensure fair working practices and ethical production. This makes wool perfect to sew with.

THE BENEFITS OF WOOL

Renewable and biodegradable

Wool is a protein fibre formed in the skin of sheep and is thus one hundred percent natural. As long as there is grass to graze on, every year sheep will produce a new fleece; making wool a renewable fibre source. And did you know that wool not only biodegrades quickly in soil, adding nutrients back to the earth, but also in the ocean and water? Therefore, wool does not impact the planet with microfibre and plastic pollution.

Insulating and breathable

Wool is a hygroscopic fibre. The natural crimp of wool fibres form millions of tiny pockets of air. As air humidity rises and falls, the fibre absorbs and releases water vapour – without compromising insulation.

Durable, resilient and elastic

Wool fibres are naturally elastic and can stretch up to 30 per cent of their length without permanent deformation or weakening. Wool is also highly absorbent, so it dyes richly and remains colourfast during wear and laundering, maintaining its appearance long term.

Easy care and stain resistant

The protective waxy coating on wool fibres makes wool products resistant to staining and they also pick up less dust as wool is naturally anti-static. Wool is naturally odour-resistant and with wool settings now on every washing machine, it’s no longer hand-wash only.

A safe solution

Wool absorbs UV radiation providing protection from the sun, making it a good choice for a wide range of outdoor activities. Also, thanks to its high water and nitrogen content, wool naturally resists burning. It is the most flame-resistant of the major fibre types and will generally self- extinguish once the source of heat is removed.

Sewing tips for wool

From tweed to crepe, coating and sweater knits – wool can be found in a range of weights and drapes for dressmaking. Traditionally used for outerwear and suiting, you can also make chic dresses, skirts and tops. For sewing success choose patterns designed for wool fabrics.

Depending on how coarse your wool is you may find it beneficial to use a ballpoint needle during construction to avoid snagging. If your wool has been knitted into a wool jersey or mixed with elastane this will be essential.

To avoid prewashing wool coating, you can steam shrink it by hovering a hot iron above the surface of the wool and steaming the fabric methodically to tighten up the fibres and prepare it for wet weather.

Wool fabrics can get quite bulky so using a pressing cloth and wooden clapper can be helpful to reduce bulk without marking your fabric. The clapper is placed on top of your garment after pressing a seam to hold the heat in the fabric and ensure a better press. Worsted wool like flannel or suiting is a very effective pressing cloth for wool fabrics.

Find out more about wool at www.campaignforwool.org