What are Godets?

We’ve got a gorgeous range of sewing patterns featuring godets – but what are they?

Godets are triangular or wedge-shaped fabric inserts used in sewing to add volume, flare, or movement to a garment, typically inserted into seams such as skirts, dresses, or sleeves. The technique involves carefully slashing a garment panel and sewing in the godet, which spreads out at the hemline to create a dramatic or flowing silhouette. Godets can be subtle, blending with the main fabric, or contrasting to add visual interest.

Historically, godets have appeared in various eras of fashion, often associated with elegance and freedom of movement. In the early 20th century, particularly during the 1920s and 1930s, godets were popular in bias-cut dresses and evening gowns, contributing to the fluid lines and graceful draping typical of the time. They resurfaced in the 1950s within full skirts and formalwear, helping shape the iconic hourglass silhouette.

More recently, designers have used godets in avant-garde and high fashion for dynamic, architectural effects. In bridal and evening wear, godets are especially favoured for creating dramatic trains or mermaid-style silhouettes, enhancing movement and elegance with every step.

When it comes to sewing a godet there are various levels of difficulty. Easier to install godets are rounded at the top. Sharply pointed triangles require precision sewing to make a neat tip. Bias cut pieces should be handled delicately during construction to avoid stretching them out, adding to the difficulty level. The best steps for success involve marking the seam allowance on your fabric pieces to help align everything. Finishing raw edges in advance can also help.

For beginners we recommend Simplicity 3138 which features one large godet that is easy to handle and install. You might then want to try Know Me 2091 which features curved godets for an easy construction. And S3070 gives you an easier method for installing sharp pointed triangle godets by assembling them flat before adding the main panel of the skirt on top.