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Simplicity Stitch by Stitch: Pattern 1318 (Part 1)

Hello! It’s Kirsty here, from Learn to Sew & welcome to my 1st tutorial for Simplicity!

As this month’s guest bloggers & one of Simplicity’s Sewing Challenge winners, I’ll be taking you through Simplicity’s 1318 pattern, stitch by stitch – so you can sew along with Simplicity and make this stylish Kimono jacket.

 

 

Why this pattern?

I like the style of this kimono top and think it would be a very flattering style on a range of body shapes. It can add an extra dimension to a plain top and a nice alternative to a cardigan. It would also be a nice light cover up in summer. It comes in sizes XXS to XXL so it can be made to suit a wide range of people.

Simplicity Stitch By Stitch 1318 visual

The fabric I will be using is Crepe Georgette in a navy blue with red and pink hearts and lips print.

It is a simple Kimono Jacket and an ‘easy-to-sew’ pattern, which is perfect for beginners.

Items you’ll need:

  • Simplicity 1318 Sewing Pattern
  • 38yd (3m) Fabric (Silky Lightweight woven, such as Batiks, Charmeuse, Cotton Types, Crepe de Chine, Double Georgette, Linen Types, Silky Types)
  • 7/8yd. of 20″ to 25″ Lightweight fusible Interfacing
  • Hand Sewing Needle
  • Normal Sewing Foot
  • Gutermann Thread (or your preferred thread)
  • Pins and Weights
  • Measuring Tape
  • Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat
  • Fabric Scissors, Paper Scissors and Thread Scissors.

 

Additional Preparation:

I began by taking all my measurements and writing down my size and other notes from the pattern:

  • I opted for Pattern Option C, Size: S
  • Fabric: Crepe Georgette – 3.0m
  • Interfacing: Lightweight grey fusible Interfacing
  • Cut out each of the pattern pieces you need for your style option. In this instance I needed: 4,5,6,7,8,9
  • I then ironed each piece flat.

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It was then time to lay out the fabric.

I’ve chosen Crepe Georgette to make this kimono top. It is a very slinky material, which makes it quite difficult to work with. It is also sheer, lightweight, springier and less lustrous than chiffon.

To begin with I laid out the fabric as flat as possible on a hard surface with right sides together. The pattern stated to lay it in a crosswise fold, which means folding the fabric width ways rather than length ways. A crosswise fold is often used when pattern pieces are too wide to fit on fabric folded lengthwise. I was using a very large piece of fabric, with a pattern that looked the same from various angles, so folding it crosswise was not so important in this instance.

I placed each pattern piece face up as per the instruction layout.

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To keep the pattern pieces as still as possible on the material, I used pattern weights and pins. Piece by piece I carefully pinned, then smoothed, then pinned again until it was placed as accurately as possible.

I then cut around each pinned pattern piece.

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Step 1.

The first stitch-by-stitch instruction is to Stay-stitch the back neck edges. This is very straightforward. Starting at the inner shoulder, with the sewing machine needle inserted in the fabric 1/2″ from the cut edge I backstitched. I then simply followed the curve of the neckline, down and around to the mid-neckline. I repeated this with the second back piece.

The purpose of stay-stitching is to prevent stretching on curved edges.

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Step 2.

I placed the two back pieces, RIGHT sides together and stitched down the center back seam of the back sections. This joined them together with a nice seam down the center of the back panel.

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I then stitched the front to the back at the shoulder seams.

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Step 3.

With RIGHT sides together I pinned the sleeve to the armhole edge, matching up the small dots on the pattern pieces. I then stitched along the edge, backstitching at each of the dots to reinforce the seam and then pressed the seam towards the sleeve using a hot iron without steam.
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Step 4.

At this point it was really starting to take shape. With the garment inside out so that the RIGHT sides were facing, I pinned the front to the back at the side and underarm seam, again matching up the small dots and notches. Ideally they would match up perfectly, but with it being such a slippery fabric, I found that my cutting was not as accurate as it should be and this meant lining up the pieces was tricky in places.

I stitched the side seam up from the bottom of the hem to the small dot and reinforced it here with some backstitching. I then stitched along the underarm from the outer edge to the inner small dot and again backstitched.

Step 5.

Now it was time to create the hem, this would be very straightforward with sturdier fabric, but it was a slow and careful process with the crepe Georgette. Firstly I machine stitched 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge on the lower edge of the kimono.

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I then pressed up this hem using the stitch line as a guide to press on.

I then tucked under the raw edge of this hem back down to meet the stitch line. This created a neat little narrow hem, which I pinned, pressed, then stitched in place. It was harder than it looked and again my inaccurate cutting became obvious in places, but the overall finish was better than I expected and the narrow little hem looked quite professional.

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Step 6.

Next was the interfacing on the band that would ultimately trim the inner edge of the Kimono. The band was created out of four front band sections and two back band sections. Three of these pieces had to be interfaced and the other three became the facings inside the kimono.

Firstly I pinned the two front band section fabric pieces onto the interfacing and one back band fabric piece. I then cut around each piece.

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I then pressed the interfacing onto the WRONG side of each band piece using a hot iron.

With RIGHT sides together I stitched the front band sections to the back band at the shoulder seams.

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NEXT WEEK….Simplicity Stitch by Stitch: Pattern 1318 – Part 2