Simplicity Stitch By Stitch: Madalynne 8228 (Part 2)
Hello! It’s The Yorkshire Sewist – I’m back for the 2nd part of the Simplicity Stitch by Stitch tutorial and this time we’re mastering knickers!
I’ll be taking you through Simplicity’s 8228 pattern, stitch by stitch – so you can complete the set and make the stylish accompaniments to the halter neck bra. You can find Part 1 – where we made the Madalynne bra HERE.
Now….on to the knickers!
Thankfully you don’t have to do the fiddly construction of treating the lace and mesh as one, as you did in part 1.
So, you need the lace for pattern pieces 14 and 16, Stretch Jacquard Simplex Tricot for pieces 12 and 15 and a small amount of 100% cotton jersey for the gusset.
Pattern pieces 17 and 18 are just guides for the leg and waist elastic.
I’d recommend cutting the leg and waist elastic now, as it saves cutting out things again once you’ve already cut out the fabrics.
Step 1. Zig zag stitch the front edges of the knickers front (pattern piece 12) and upper edges of knickers back (pattern piece 15)
Remember to use your normal sewing foot! This is to finish the edges, to stop them fraying and to also give it a nice professional finish.
I’ve used the following stitch length and wide:
Step 2. On the outside (right side facing you) place the wrong side of the lace panels, knickers side front (pattern piece 14) to the right side of knicker front, lapping front edge of the side front over the front, matching the 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance.
Then pin, placing pins on the outside (the right side facing you) and making sure you catch both the lace and the knicker fabric. Stitch along the seam line using a 1/8″ (3mm) wide zig zag stitch or straight stitch.
Top Sewing Tip! Toget the straight seam line for Step 2, transfer your pins to the other side (inside/wrong side facing you) so that edge of the knicker fabric is visible, making it a lot easier to get the straight seam line.
Step 3. With right sides together, stitch the centre back seam of the knickers side back (pattern piece 16) – remember to use your normal sewing foot! Press the Seam towards one side.
Step 4. On the uutside (right side facing you), switch back to your normal sewing foot and top stitch using a zig zag stitch close to the seam, so it covers the edge of the seam allowance underneath for a neat finish.
Step 5. Place the wrong side of the knickers side back (pattern piece 16) to the right side of the knickers back (pattern piece 15), lapping lower back edge of the side back over the back, matching the centres and matching the 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance.
Pin, placing pins on the outside (the right side facing you) and making sure you catch both the lace and the knicker fabric.
Stitch along the seam line using a 1/8″ (3mm) wide zig zag stitch or straight stitch.
Top Sewing Tip! When you get to the centre V remember to stop sewing before you get to the end and keep your needle in the fabric. Lift up the foot and pivot your fabric to continue to sew on the other side.
Step 6. Zig zag stitch the front un-notched edge of the crotch lining (pattern piece 13) – Remember to use your normal sewing foot! This is to the finish the edge.
Step 7. With right sides together, place the knicker back over the knicker front at the crotch seam line, matching the notches and making sure the raw edges are even.
Step 8. Stitch the front to the back at the side seam, using a straight stitch, then finish with a zig zag stitch close to the raw edges of the seam allowance and press the seam toward the front of the knickers.
Step 9. Press the crotch lining and pin to the inside of the knicker front, placing the pins on the outside and making sure that the Raw edges are even.
Cut two pieces of the picot edge elastic (the length of the leg) elastic guide (pattern piece 18) – or as we prepared earlier at the beginning, Blue Peter style!
On the outside (right side of the knickers) place the elastic on the leg edge, having the edge of the elastic extend by 1/8″ (3mm) beyond the outer edge, making sure you have the plush side of the elastic facing you and lapping the ends by 1/2″ (1.3cm) at the back, just above the Crotch Seam.
Top Sewing Tip! Start at the overlap part at the crotch seam, then pin the middle by folding the elastic in half and ending the halfway mark on the kickers by folding them too, then pin the elastic.
Stitch close to the picot edge, using a 1/8″ (3mm) wide zig zag stitch – being careful not to stretch the elastic as you sew.
Step 10. Turn the elastic to the inside. Stitch the elastic close to the inner edge using the zig zag stitch.
Step 11. Cut a piece of the plush picot elastic the length of the knicker waist elastic guide (Pattern Piece 17)
Apply the elastic to the waistline in the same manner as for the legs and have the elastic lap at one of the side seams.
And there you go!! You now have a matching Madalynne bra and knickers!