Simplicity Stitch By Stitch: Madalynne 8228 (Part 1)

Hello! It’s Sally here, from The Yorkshire Sewist & welcome to my 1st tutorial for Simplicity!

As this month’s guest bloggers & one of Simplicity’s sewing experts, i’ll be taking you through Simplicity’s 8228 pattern, stitch by stitch – so you can sew along with Simplicity and make this gorgeous lingerie pattern.

 

 

Why this pattern? 

The good thing about this Simplicity Madalynne pattern is that it starts at Size 32A to 42DD and Knicker Size XS-XL so this is a good all rounder pattern that will fit many people.

 

First things first…

Now then! Open up the envelope, make yourself a brew, read the instructions and make a list of materials/equipment you need if you don’t have them already, so no last minute dash to the local haberdashery store or waiting days for online orders!

There isn’t anything worse than you wanting to get on with sewing when you can’t!

Items you’ll need 

• Simplicity 8228 Sewing Pattern
• 3.6m of 8″ Wide Stretch Twin Gallon White Lace
• 1.5m of Bra Lining Mesh Fabric
• 1 x 28mm Hook and Eye back fastener
• 1.5m of Light Cream 1/4″ Lingerie Elastic
• 5m of Pink Plush Picot Elastic
• 0.5m of Bra Casing aka Channeling
• 1m of Cream Stretch Jacquard Simplex Tricot
• Small piece of Jersey for the Gusset
• Odif 505AD Temporary Adhesive Spray –  It is a definite must when making lingerie! It makes life sooo much easier
• Ballpoint Needle – I used size 80/15
• 1/4″ Quilter’s foot to get that spot on 1/4″ Seam Allowance
• Normal Sewing Foot  Gutermann Thread
• Pins and Weights
• Mini Clips (You’ll see why later)
• Measuring Tape and Ruler
• Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat
• Scissors

 

Should I wash the fabric? 

After debating whether to pre-wash my fabric, like I would normally do when constructing clothing, I decided not to as a lot of people said it could distort the fabric and make it harder to work with and to wash the bra/knickers after construction, so I’m following that route  but of course it’s down to personal preference.

How to find the perfect bra size 

Included within the Simplicity instructions is a chart, with measurements to calculate the bra size you need to cut out.

Please don’t refer to your normal ready to wear bra sizing, as I normally take a 32DD from retailers and if I had cut and sewn that it would have no way of fitted me!

My under chest measurement fell into the 36 band size measurement and fullest chest measurement fell into the D Cup Size.

Now you have your bra Size, cut out the pattern pieces you require.

For this step by step, I have made Halter Bra A and I only need Pieces 1, 2 and 3. Thankfully Simplicity has made this easy for you and have labelled each back size individually, with the required pieces for each bra! Yes!

The knicker sizing is just down to your waist measurement and my measurement was smack in the middle of the medium so I cut that one out.

Top Tip: If you are unsure of the sizing, I would make the size in a toile to make sure the it would be okay. But I’m lucky enough to know from previous experience of Simplicity Patterns that the medium would be okay.

The Knickers require Pieces 12,13,14,15,16,17 and 18.

Warning! (sewing sirens go off) This step is the most important

 

Time to get cutting 

The lace and the mesh are treated as one fabric, so you must follow the steps below to prepare the fabric.

For ease of use, cut the mesh into strips that cover the pattern pieces – like I’ve shown below, so one mesh piece to cover one set of the bra pieces, another for the other set of bra pieces then one piece to cover the band.

Then cut the Gallon lace to the same sizes of the pieces of mesh….then get ready to get messy!

Make sure you have a mat or some newspaper, as this spray adhesive is quite sticky!

Spray the mesh evenly, from one edge to the other and place the wrong side of the gallon lace over the mesh, so that the right side of the lace is facing you and to make sure that the inner points of the scallops are even with the raw edge of the mesh, like I’ve shown here:

To get the pattern pieces cleanly cut, I’ve used my own handmade weights out of polymer clay, but anything that is heavy will do, as well as a rotary cutter – for a clean cut.

 

For the bottom band, line up your inner scallops to the raw edge of the mesh, as you don’t need to worry about matching the rest, as it will be cut away.

Then you should have the following pieces for constructing the bra, together with the haberdashery bits:

 

Hurray! Start Stitching 

Remember the seam allowance is 1/4″ or 6mm, if you use Metric system until otherwise told so in the instructions. That’s why I’ll be using my quilter’s foot, as that is just made for 1/4″ Seams, so you just keep to the edge of the foot

Step 1. With right sides together, pin the cup front (pattern piece 1) to the cup

Side front (pattern piece 2), remembering to match up the dots and notches and stitch in place and press the seam towards the centre. Repeat for other set of bra pieces.

Step 2. With the right side of the bra facing you, top stitch the cup front using a 3cm wide zig zag stitch or straight stitch  ( I prefer zig zag) away from the initial seam in Step 1 – but make sure it catches the seam allowance and that it doesn’t look ugly (remember to use your normal sewing foot!)

To help guide you, I’ve placed my seam to the split in my normal sewing foot, so  the zig zag stitch will be close enough to the seam but will catch the outer edge.

Step 3. Cut a piece of the lingerie elastic to the length of the cup front edge, on the inside (the wrong side facing you) place the elastic along the mesh edge and sew though the centre of the Elastic using (3mm wide) zig zag stitch.

Cut another piece of the lingerie elastic to the length of the cup side front edge, on the inside (the wrong side facing you) place the elastic along the mesh edge and sew though the centre of the Elastic using (3mm wide) zig zag Stitch.

Repeat for other Set. So you will have 2 cups with elastic sewn down both sides.

Step 4. Cut a piece of plush picot elastic to the length of the underarm edge of the bridge to the end of the band, as shown here:

On the outside (right side facing you), place the elastic on the underarm edge, having the flat edge of the elastic match the raw edge of the lace/mesh.

Stitch as close as you can to the picot edge using a (3cm) zig zag stitch, stretching the elastic slightly as you sew.

Step 5. Turn the elastic to the inside (wrong side of the fabric). Stitch the elastic close to the inner edge using the same zig zag stitch, as in step 4.

Step 6. With right sides together, pin the bra cups to the bridge and band, matching the centres and small dots.

Switch back to your quilter’s foot, as you’ll need the 1/4″ seam allowance. Stitch from one end to the centre. Then stitch from the other end to the centre – remembering to keep the outer edges of the cup away from the seam allowance.

Step 7. Cut two pieces of the channeling to the length of the lower edge of the bra cup seam allowance.

On the inside (wrong side facing you) pin the inner edge of the channeling to the seam allowance, close to the seam line.

Stitch close to the inner edge of the channeling. Then start sewing from one edge to the centre and repeat for the other side. The channeling will overlap at the centre front.

Step 8. Press the seam and channeling towards the bridge.  On the outside (right side facing you), top stitch away from the seam, stitching through all layers and catching the channeling on the inside.

Step 9. Close the channeling by using a zig zag stitch across it, at the centre front and the underarm (remember to use your normal sewing foot!). Trim the channeling so that its flush with the underarm edge, being careful not to cut through the lace or picot.

Step 10. Now to add the hook and eye fastener. Open out the opening of the eye end of the fastener. Slip in 1/2″ (1.3cm) of the left band into the open end of the fastener, with the eyes on the outside.

Stitch close to the opening edge of the fastener through all thicknesses (fastener and lace/mesh).

Open out the hook end of the bra fastener, Again, slip 1/2″ (1.3cm) of the right band into the open end of the fastener with the hooks on the inside (facing away from you). Stitch close to the opening edge of the fastener through all thicknesses (fastener and lace/mesh)

 

Checking the fit…

Step 11.  Try on the bra. Make any adjustment at the centre back neck seam, if necessary. I needed to make adjustments after trying it on and I took 1″ 3/4 off each side.

With right sides together, stitch the centre back neck seam. Trim the seam (6mm) if necessary ( I did, as I felt it gave a better finish after Step 12.)

 

Step 12. On the outside (right side facing you) top stitch using a zig zag stitch close to the seam, so it covers the edge of the seam allowance for a neat and tidy finish.

And here it is…..the finished make!

And Voila! Here is one super comfy soft bra, as modeled by Dorris the Mannequin.

I can finally share the Simplicity beauties I’ve made!! As you will know I am an Instagram addict and have many postings of my sewing adventures and for me not to post a single thing on the construction of this was extremely hard!

NEXT WEEK….Simplicity Stitch by Stitch for the Madalynne 8228 knickers.