Make sure your collars turn out perfectly so if they were judged by Patrick and Esme they’ll pass with flying colours!
Cut two collar pieces and interface one of them which will be the upper collar. Cut the other one which will be the under collar slightly smaller by 2mm around the outer edge.
Once sewn together around the outer edge, trim seam allowance to 6mm, also clipping diagonally into the seam allowance at the curves – this will help it lay flat and smoothly when turned through.
Use a point turner to push out the curves/corners smoothly. Roll the seam so that it sits slightly to the under collar side.
If you are working with a fabric that has a ‘pile’ or surface texture such as corduroy, make sure all pieces are laid on the fabric in the same direction, top to toe so that the pile runs the same way (Often with a pile fabric, if brushed one way it will be rough and dark, brushed the other way smooth and light).
Add some appliqué, held in place with free motion which means that you can move the fabric in any direction like two contestants on this week’s show. But do remember to back the area with a stabiliser to prevent the fabric puckering as you sew. If you don’t have any to hand, a piece of paper will work too – just rip it off when you have finished.
If you want to add a fun lining to a pocket and are worried it might peak out unintentionally, make it a statement! Cut the lining slightly longer by 3-5mm so when it is turned to the inside and pocket bottoms are even, the top pocket edge has a mock piping lip of the lining. Then top stitch ‘in the ditch’ (in the previous seam) to hold the lining in place.
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